Shower enclosures made of tempered glass are permanent, simple to clean, and have sleek transparency that makes a bathroom look larger. They also keep water where it belongs when correctly fitted.

There are two types of enclosures: framed and frameless. While attractive, frameless systems need thicker glass, more costly hardware, and faultless manufacture. Framed units are lighter and less expensive, and they can withstand greater damage.

Making Advance Arrangements

• Measure the width of the shower opening in three locations: the threshold, up to 5 feet, and midway between.
• Any wall above 5 feet that is more than 12 inches out of vertical will require a matching filler strip in order for the door to be plumb.
• Measure the distance to bath fixtures or any other possible obstructions that an outswing door could contact from the point on the threshold where the door will pivot.
• Draw a drawing of the shower in elevation and in plain view (looking down from above) (side view). Fill in all of the dimensions and bring it to the showroom with you.

After measuring the length of the shower threshold, cut the aluminum base track with a hacksaw to fit snugly between the stall walls.

With a file, smooth the cut end. To avoid scratching the bathroom floor or shower base, vacuum up the metal filings as soon as possible. Place the track on the threshold and make sure it is centered from front to back with a tape measure.

Mark the threshold with a pencil along the track’s edge at each end. Shower Doors Replacement and this enables easy adjustment if the jambs slip around during installation. Hold a jamb piece against the wall on the side of the shower opening that will support the door so that its lower end fits into the base track. Adjust the jamb using a 4-foot level until it is plumb without moving the track. Mark the wall with a pencil through the screw holes in the jamb. Remove the jamb and, using an automated punch or a hammer and nail set, make a tiny divot at each pencil mark. These tools chip enough of the glazing off the tile to keep the drill bit from wandering. Using a 3/16-inch-diameter masonry drill bit, drill holes at each mark.

Each screw hole should be tapped with a plastic wall anchor. To avoid scratching the walls, use a plastic mallet. Align the screw holes in the jamb with the plastic anchors by pressing them against the wall. In each hole, insert a 112-inch stainless steel pan-head screw. Lift the door and slid the hinge rail into the jamb with the door’s associated hinge rail positioned to swing-out.

Hold the Shower Doors Replacement in place and use a level to make sure the strike-side edge is plumb. If it is not, gently lift the hinge rail from the jamb at the top or bottom. The hinge rail should still be engaged in the jamb once the door is plumb, there is a full 12 inches of adjustment for plumb between these two parts